Off-world Power Generation Air-Bearing Testbed: Difference between revisions

From Bitpost wiki
(Create Air-Bearing Testbed page: surface stack, leveling scheme, torsion-box bed build plans + walkthrough diagram)
 
(Sync build recipe to as-built: SCS 1/4-in MDF egg-crate kit, M10x1.5 inserts via pad stacks, PE release + stage-2 flip, felt glass bumpers, metric-first)
 
Line 20: Line 20:
         -> air-bearing puck (the module)
         -> air-bearing puck (the module)


'''Glass:''' ¼″ (6 mm) clear '''annealed''' float, cut to ~'''20″×35″''' to sit just
'''Glass:''' 6 mm (¼″) clear '''annealed''' float, cut to '''508 × 889 mm'''
inside the 20.5″×36″ table (no overhang — a cantilevered annealed sheet cracks).
(20″×35″) to sit just inside the 520.7 × 914.4 mm table (no overhang — a
Ask for '''seamed''' edges (safe to handle); don't pay for polished — the bearing
cantilevered annealed sheet cracks). Ask for '''seamed''' edges (safe to handle);
never runs on the edge. Specify '''annealed, NOT tempered''' (tempering's roller-wave
don't pay for polished — the bearing never runs on the edge. Specify '''annealed,
distortion ruins the ~10 µm fly height). Source locally and pick up — don't ship
NOT tempered''' (tempering's roller-wave distortion ruins the ~10 µm fly height).
glass. Get ≥2 quotes; small custom cuts vary widely on shop minimum + edgework.
Source locally and pick up — don't ship glass. Get ≥2 quotes; small custom cuts
vary widely on shop minimum + edgework.
 
'''Registration on the bed:''' the glass lifts off for every re-level, and the bed
below is only ~3.5 mm wider per long side — a long edge slid past the bed is a
910 mm cantilevered crack line. Stick '''glue-back felt pads''' on the bed as edge
bumpers: two per long side at the ¼ and ¾ points (optionally one on a short edge
as a home stop), mounted ''kissing'' the centered glass — touching, not
compressing. They sit below the glass top, so the floating puck never meets them.


== Leveling — the #1 build variable ==
== Leveling — the #1 build variable ==
Line 37: Line 45:
turning feet under a heavy table is awkward, and table-leg leveling only fixes
turning feet under a heavy table is awkward, and table-leg leveling only fixes
overall tilt — not the wood top's local waviness. Instead, stand '''3 adjustable
overall tilt — not the wood top's local waviness. Instead, stand '''3 adjustable
bolts on top of the table, under the bed''', and trim there at working height beside
bolts on top of the table, under the bed''' — '''M10×1.5×60 socket-head bolts''' in
the digital level. A stiff bed on 3 points also '''bridges over''' the table top's
threaded inserts in the bed's underside — and trim there at working height beside
waviness. Rough-level the table once with shims (~1°), then trim < 0.05° on the 3
the digital level. Coarse 1.5 mm/turn pitch is plenty: over the ~520 mm baseline,
bolts, and '''re-check loaded''' (glass + module shifts it). The air bearing exerts
1/20 of a turn ≈ 0.008°. A stiff bed on 3 points also '''bridges over''' the table
negligible horizontal force, so gravity holds the bed; optional cone / V-groove /
top's waviness. Rough-level the table once (~1°; shim only if needed), then trim
flat (Kelvin) seats under the 3 bolt tips make the mount non-sliding and repeatable.
< 0.05° on the 3 bolts, and '''re-check loaded''' (glass + module shifts it). The
air bearing exerts negligible horizontal force, so gravity holds the bed; optional
cone / V-groove / flat (Kelvin) seats under the 3 bolt tips make the mount
non-sliding and repeatable.


== Torsion-box bed — build plans ==
== Torsion-box bed — build recipe (as built) ==


A torsion box is two thin skins glued to an internal rib grid: stiff and dead flat
A torsion box is two thin skins glued to an internal rib grid: stiff and dead flat
for low weight and ~$40 of materials. A plain ¾″ panel on 3 points would sag at the
for low weight and cost. A plain ¾″ panel on 3 points would sag at the overhangs
overhangs (0.3 mm over 10″ ≈ 0.07° slope — over budget); the box stays flat. It is
(0.3 mm over 250 mm ≈ 0.07° slope — over budget); the box stays flat. It is
'''only as flat as the surface you glue it on''' — so assemble it on the float glass
'''only as flat as the surface you glue it on''' — so assemble it on the float
itself (a micron-flat reference), covered with wax paper so glue won't stick. Target
glass itself (a micron-flat reference) under a plastic release layer. Finished box
box ≈ '''20.5″×36″ × ~2.5″ thick'''.
'''515 × 910 × ~63 mm''', ~6.3 kg — light enough to hand-turn the leveling bolts
(avoid heavy ready-flat plates like granite or cast aluminum here).


[[File:Torsion box walkthrough.png|800px|center|Torsion-box bed build walkthrough: rib grid, exploded sandwich, glue-up on the glass jig, leveling-insert placement, final stack, and the buy/step list.]]
[[File:Torsion box walkthrough.png|800px|center|Torsion-box bed build walkthrough: egg-crate rib grid, exploded sandwich, glue-up on the glass jig, insert-pad stations, final leveling stack, and the kit/step list.]]


=== Buy ===
=== The kit ===


* '''Skins:''' ¼″ MDF or tempered hardboard — two pieces '''20.5″×36″'''.
* '''Laser-cut 6.35 mm (¼″) MDF''' (cut-to-size online, e.g. SendCutSend): '''skin ×2''' (515 × 910), '''long rib ×5''' (910 × 50, 6 slots), '''cross rib ×6''' (515 × 50, 5 slots) — 6.35 mm half-lap slots interlock into an egg-crate grid with ~170 × 119 mm cells.
* '''Ribs:''' ¾″ × 2″ strips, ~16–20 linear ft (rip from ¾″ stock, or 1×2 furring).
* '''Insert pad ×9''' (60 × 60) — glued into three 3-layer stacks for the leveling inserts: a thin rib can't take an insert edge-on, and the M10 insert needs ~19 mm of material.
* '''Glue:''' PVA wood glue (Titebond); brad nails/staples or clamps + even weights.
* '''Titebond III''' (long open time, water-resistant), a '''polyethylene sheet''' as the glue release — a cut-open PE trash bag beats wax paper (cured PVA doesn't bond PE at all); '''never paper towels''' (glue wicks through and bonds both sides).
* '''3× threaded inserts''' (fine-thread 3/8″-24 or M10×1.0) + 3 bolts / leveling glides.
* '''3× M10×1.5×20 hex-drive threaded inserts''' + '''3× M10×60 socket-head bolts''' (the feet).


Buy raw and cut yourself, have a store make the straight panel cuts, or order the
=== Build ===
panels '''cut-to-size online''' (e.g. SendCutSend, Cherokee Wood Products) and glue
at home. A light box (~10–15 lb) is what makes the 3-bolt leveling easy — avoid
heavy ready-flat plates (granite ~100 lb, MIC-6 aluminum) here, since you hand-turn
the leveling bolts.


=== Build ===
# '''Dry-fit''' the egg-crate; sand any tight slot until it seats by hand (loose is fine — glue + skins lock it). Check the grid sits flush. '''Scuff the laser char off the skin-facing rib edges''' (120 grit — PVA bonds burned dust poorly).
# Jig stack on the table: '''flat cardboard''' (fills the rough table top's gaps, spreads the cure weight, guards the annealed sheet against grit point-loads) → '''float glass''' → '''PE sheet, taut, taped outside the footprint''' → work.
# Glue '''dabs in the slot interlocks''' (anti-rack shear only), seat the grid. Then the structural lines: '''continuous ~3 mm bead on every rib-to-skin edge''' (~7.6 m total ≈ 2–3 min — fits the glue's ~10 min open time).
# '''Stage 1:''' grid onto the bottom skin on the jig, edges flush. Caul on top (plastic layer + the dry top skin), '''27–45 kg (60–100 lb) spread evenly''' — dead weight works by ''contact'', not pressure; more buys nothing. ≥2 h. If the grid slid during placement: flashlight every cell and '''fillet any junction run with zero squeeze-out''' (low in the corner, OFF the rib top edges — a blob there holds the top skin off); fillets set ~1 h.
# '''Stage 2:''' bead the top edges, top skin on flush, '''secure the skin's edges (tape wraps / clamps)''' — mid-flip the wet joint is vertical and the skin skates — then '''flip the sandwich top-face-down onto the jig''' and weight overnight. The flip presses the ''service face'' (where the glass rides) against the flat reference, so that face gets the jig's flatness.
# Glue the three '''3-layer pad stacks to the outside of the bottom skin''', each centered under a rib line (the rib is on the opposite face of the skin — it backs the load): stations '''(194, 30), (716, 30), (455, 485)''' mm ⇒ a ~520 × 460 mm leveling triangle (symmetric base pair + centerline apex ≈ decoupled pitch/roll trim). Every interface full-coverage, clamped '''thin''' — thick glue lines are weaker than the MDF. '''Cure 24 h before drilling''' (drilling a half-cured laminate can shear a glue line).
# '''13 mm pilot × ~22 mm deep''' at each station (stack + skin = 25.4 mm — tape-flag the bit; ~3 mm of skin stays intact, and the rib behind it is never touched). Drive the '''M10 inserts flush''', seal the MDF edges including inside the pilot holes (thinned PVA), thread in the feet.
# Box on its 3 bolts on the rough-leveled table, glass on top (continuous support), trim '''< 0.05°''' against the digital level; '''re-check loaded'''.


# Cut the two skins flat and square (20.5″×36″). Cut the rib grid: a perimeter frame + internal ribs forming '''~5–6″ cells''' (≈5–6 cross ribs along the 36″ length + 2–3 long ribs across the 20.5″ width). Butt joints are fine.
[[File:Torsion box phase d.png|800px|center|Phase D: insert-pad station map, pilot cross-section with the 22-of-25.4 mm depth stop, insert seating, feet, and the fine-level trim math.]]
# Lay the '''float glass on the table, cover with wax paper / plastic''' → your flat assembly jig. Lay the '''bottom skin''' on it.
# Glue the rib grid to the bottom skin; tack with brads or weight down. The flat skin forces every rib into one plane.
# Glue the '''top skin''' on. '''Weight the whole sandwich evenly''' and let it cure on the flat reference (overnight). It cures locked-flat.
# Seal / edge-band the edges (humidity stability); wipe the top clean.
# Install the '''3 threaded inserts in the bottom skin, each directly over a rib''' (so the adjuster load goes into structure, not an unbacked ¼″ skin) — two along one long edge, one centered on the opposite edge, inset ~3–4″. Thread in the 3 bolts; their tips stand on the table top.
# Set the box on the table, drop the glass on top (continuous support), and level on the 3 bolts against the digital level. Re-check loaded.


'''Key gotchas:''' assemble on the flat reference (step 2 is the whole game); the
'''Key gotchas:''' assemble on the flat reference (step 2 is the whole game); the
inserts must land over ribs (step 6); rough-level the table first so the bolts only
pad stacks and inserts must be backed by a rib line (step 6); never drill or drive
do the fine trim.
inserts into a half-cured glue-up (Titebond III wants ~24 h); rough-level the table
first so the bolts only do the fine trim.


''Lazy fallback (no box):'' doubled ¾″ MDF (1.5″) on the 3 adjusters — stiffer than
''Alternatives:'' the same box can be built from store lumber (¾″ rib strips + ¼″
single ¾″ but marginal vs the 0.05° budget at this span; build the box if you can.
skins, inserts landed directly over ribs — no pad stacks needed); a solid-core
flush door cut to size is a ready-made torsion box (seal the cut edge, verify
flatness). ''Lazy fallback:'' doubled ¾″ MDF (1.5″) on the 3 adjusters — marginal
vs the 0.05° budget at this span; build the box if you can.

Latest revision as of 22:01, 20 July 2026

The air-bearing testbed is the ground analogue for the project's in-space self-assembly work: identical robotic modules float on a near-frictionless planar surface (3 degrees of freedom — x, y, yaw) and rehearse relative navigation, docking, and growth logic at hobby cost. It does not reproduce orbital relative dynamics; it validates the planar kinematics, docking, and autonomy. The shared apparatus below underlies Lab 3 (propulsive navigation), Lab 4 (moment control), and Lab 5 (robotic self-assembly).

The running surface

Modules float on a sheet of float glass (flat to tens of microns by manufacture) — the smooth running surface. The glass is supported continuously by a stiff, flat bed; the bed is leveled on 3 adjustable points. Full stack:

stock 4-leg table (rough-leveled, no drilling)
  -> 3 leveling adjusters (top-side, at working height)
    -> torsion-box bed (stiff + flat)
      -> float glass (continuously supported)
        -> air-bearing puck (the module)

Glass: 6 mm (¼″) clear annealed float, cut to 508 × 889 mm (20″×35″) to sit just inside the 520.7 × 914.4 mm table (no overhang — a cantilevered annealed sheet cracks). Ask for seamed edges (safe to handle); don't pay for polished — the bearing never runs on the edge. Specify annealed, NOT tempered (tempering's roller-wave distortion ruins the ~10 µm fly height). Source locally and pick up — don't ship glass. Get ≥2 quotes; small custom cuts vary widely on shop minimum + edgework.

Registration on the bed: the glass lifts off for every re-level, and the bed below is only ~3.5 mm wider per long side — a long edge slid past the bed is a 910 mm cantilevered crack line. Stick glue-back felt pads on the bed as edge bumpers: two per long side at the ¼ and ¾ points (optionally one on a short edge as a home stop), mounted kissing the centered glass — touching, not compressing. They sit below the glass top, so the floating puck never meets them.

Leveling — the #1 build variable

Residual tilt projects gravity into the plane as phantom gravity: a = g·sin θ. At 0.10° that is 17 mm/s² of drift; the target is < 0.05° (8.6 mm/s²), ideally 0.01°. Use kinematic 3-point support — three points define the plane exactly (no rock, both tilt axes trimmable); 4 supports over-constrain and rock.

Level the surface, not the table. The table has fat 4×4 legs; drilling and turning feet under a heavy table is awkward, and table-leg leveling only fixes overall tilt — not the wood top's local waviness. Instead, stand 3 adjustable bolts on top of the table, under the bedM10×1.5×60 socket-head bolts in threaded inserts in the bed's underside — and trim there at working height beside the digital level. Coarse 1.5 mm/turn pitch is plenty: over the ~520 mm baseline, 1/20 of a turn ≈ 0.008°. A stiff bed on 3 points also bridges over the table top's waviness. Rough-level the table once (~1°; shim only if needed), then trim < 0.05° on the 3 bolts, and re-check loaded (glass + module shifts it). The air bearing exerts negligible horizontal force, so gravity holds the bed; optional cone / V-groove / flat (Kelvin) seats under the 3 bolt tips make the mount non-sliding and repeatable.

Torsion-box bed — build recipe (as built)

A torsion box is two thin skins glued to an internal rib grid: stiff and dead flat for low weight and cost. A plain ¾″ panel on 3 points would sag at the overhangs (0.3 mm over 250 mm ≈ 0.07° slope — over budget); the box stays flat. It is only as flat as the surface you glue it on — so assemble it on the float glass itself (a micron-flat reference) under a plastic release layer. Finished box 515 × 910 × ~63 mm, ~6.3 kg — light enough to hand-turn the leveling bolts (avoid heavy ready-flat plates like granite or cast aluminum here).

Torsion-box bed build walkthrough: egg-crate rib grid, exploded sandwich, glue-up on the glass jig, insert-pad stations, final leveling stack, and the kit/step list.

The kit

  • Laser-cut 6.35 mm (¼″) MDF (cut-to-size online, e.g. SendCutSend): skin ×2 (515 × 910), long rib ×5 (910 × 50, 6 slots), cross rib ×6 (515 × 50, 5 slots) — 6.35 mm half-lap slots interlock into an egg-crate grid with ~170 × 119 mm cells.
  • Insert pad ×9 (60 × 60) — glued into three 3-layer stacks for the leveling inserts: a thin rib can't take an insert edge-on, and the M10 insert needs ~19 mm of material.
  • Titebond III (long open time, water-resistant), a polyethylene sheet as the glue release — a cut-open PE trash bag beats wax paper (cured PVA doesn't bond PE at all); never paper towels (glue wicks through and bonds both sides).
  • 3× M10×1.5×20 hex-drive threaded inserts + 3× M10×60 socket-head bolts (the feet).

Build

  1. Dry-fit the egg-crate; sand any tight slot until it seats by hand (loose is fine — glue + skins lock it). Check the grid sits flush. Scuff the laser char off the skin-facing rib edges (120 grit — PVA bonds burned dust poorly).
  2. Jig stack on the table: flat cardboard (fills the rough table top's gaps, spreads the cure weight, guards the annealed sheet against grit point-loads) → float glassPE sheet, taut, taped outside the footprint → work.
  3. Glue dabs in the slot interlocks (anti-rack shear only), seat the grid. Then the structural lines: continuous ~3 mm bead on every rib-to-skin edge (~7.6 m total ≈ 2–3 min — fits the glue's ~10 min open time).
  4. Stage 1: grid onto the bottom skin on the jig, edges flush. Caul on top (plastic layer + the dry top skin), 27–45 kg (60–100 lb) spread evenly — dead weight works by contact, not pressure; more buys nothing. ≥2 h. If the grid slid during placement: flashlight every cell and fillet any junction run with zero squeeze-out (low in the corner, OFF the rib top edges — a blob there holds the top skin off); fillets set ~1 h.
  5. Stage 2: bead the top edges, top skin on flush, secure the skin's edges (tape wraps / clamps) — mid-flip the wet joint is vertical and the skin skates — then flip the sandwich top-face-down onto the jig and weight overnight. The flip presses the service face (where the glass rides) against the flat reference, so that face gets the jig's flatness.
  6. Glue the three 3-layer pad stacks to the outside of the bottom skin, each centered under a rib line (the rib is on the opposite face of the skin — it backs the load): stations (194, 30), (716, 30), (455, 485) mm ⇒ a ~520 × 460 mm leveling triangle (symmetric base pair + centerline apex ≈ decoupled pitch/roll trim). Every interface full-coverage, clamped thin — thick glue lines are weaker than the MDF. Cure 24 h before drilling (drilling a half-cured laminate can shear a glue line).
  7. 13 mm pilot × ~22 mm deep at each station (stack + skin = 25.4 mm — tape-flag the bit; ~3 mm of skin stays intact, and the rib behind it is never touched). Drive the M10 inserts flush, seal the MDF edges including inside the pilot holes (thinned PVA), thread in the feet.
  8. Box on its 3 bolts on the rough-leveled table, glass on top (continuous support), trim < 0.05° against the digital level; re-check loaded.
Phase D: insert-pad station map, pilot cross-section with the 22-of-25.4 mm depth stop, insert seating, feet, and the fine-level trim math.

Key gotchas: assemble on the flat reference (step 2 is the whole game); the pad stacks and inserts must be backed by a rib line (step 6); never drill or drive inserts into a half-cured glue-up (Titebond III wants ~24 h); rough-level the table first so the bolts only do the fine trim.

Alternatives: the same box can be built from store lumber (¾″ rib strips + ¼″ skins, inserts landed directly over ribs — no pad stacks needed); a solid-core flush door cut to size is a ready-made torsion box (seal the cut edge, verify flatness). Lazy fallback: doubled ¾″ MDF (1.5″) on the 3 adjusters — marginal vs the 0.05° budget at this span; build the box if you can.